9533 Power Supply

PSU Specs
Planar Power Connectors (Pinouts)
   Planar Power Connector P1
   Planar Power Connector P2
   Hard-drive Power Connector P3
Power Supply Voltages
Jump-starting the PSU
Open PSU
Close PSU


PSU Specs

FRU P/N 39G6560, P/N 39G6534
Made by Minebea Electronics, Ltd.
Minebea P/N AF000067

PCB is marked CMKS-171X
Fuse F1 is 3.15 A / 250 V T HBC

Input

100 - 125 V ~ 0.7 A
200 - 240 V ~ 0.35 A
50/60 Hz

Output

+5 V @ 4.17 A
+12 V @ 0.12 A
-12 V @ 0.12 A
-5 V @ 0.11 A

Max. output power is 24 W


Planar Power Connectors (Pinouts)

Planar Power Connector P1 (5 V)

  Pin(s) Description
  1,2 +5 V DC
  3,4 GND

Planar Power Connector P2

  Pin(s) Description Notes
  1,2 +12 V DC
  3 Power Good +5 V if all voltages are stabilized
  4 Power ON/OFF OFF: +5 V, ON: Shorted to GND
  5 -12 V DC
  6 GND
  7 -5 V DC

Hard-drive Power Connector P3 (on IDE drive cable)

  Pin(s) Description
  2,3 +5 V DC
  1 GND


Power Supply Voltages

If the power-on indicator is not on, check the power cord for proper installation and continuity.

  1. Check for continuity between pins 4 and 6 (switch) on P2.
  2. If the switch is OK, short pin 4 to pin 6 on P2 and check the power supply voltages.

Planar Power Connector P1 (5 V)

-Lead +Lead V Min V Max
4 1 +3.75 +6.25

Planar Power Connector P2

-Lead +Lead V dc Min V dc Max
6 1, 2 +9.0 +15.0
6 3 +2.4 +5.25
6 4 +1.0
6 5 -9.0 -15.0
6 7 -4.75 -5.5

Hard-drive Power Connector P3 (on IDE drive cable)

-Lead +Lead V dc Min V dc Max
1 2, 3 +3.75 +6.25


Jump-starting the PSU

Shut down the machine, unplug power cord from the PSU and open the case. Then unplug power-supply cables P1 and P2 from the planar and connect the power cord back to the unit. Short pins 6 and 4 on the power-supply connector P2 to start the unit.


Open PSU

Remove sheet metal screw on inner side with small Phillips. Note the two pin port? My guess is a Wake-On-LAN...

Remove small sheet metal screw on outer side. Note that there is a rivet holding the top side to the outer side, right next to the power connectors. Drill the rivet out.

Remove the two small phillips screws that thread into a heatsink.

Note: If you leave these two screws in, the PSU will not open. The PSU PCB is actually fastened to the top cover!

Now pivot top on rear lip.

The top cover hooks over a lip on the rear of the PSU case. You do NOT have to unscrew the AC socket!

Top view of opened PSU. Note the inverted "L" shaped heatsink, with the two threaded mounting holes?

There is a small PCB mounted at the front of the case. It provides the -12 V DC. Blue lead, -12 V DC, cream lead is -12 V Ground.


Close PSU

Pretty much in reverse.

Hook the rear wall of the PSU over the lip on the bottom. Rotate the top cover down until it seats on the frame in front. Start the threaded heatsink screws on the bottom of the PSU first. Now you can adjust the top of the case a little so you can start the metal screws.

Once all 4 screws have been started and slightly snugged, tighten the heatsink screws, then the top cover metal screws. Done.

The two threaded screws are used to attach the bottom of the PSU case to a heatsink. Two positives: first, the PSU will be more rigid, second, the frame is now thermally bonded to the heatsink. In effect, making the case part of the heatsink.

Content created and/or collected by:
Louis Ohland, Peter Wendt, David Beem, William Walsh, Tatsuo Sunagawa, Jim Shorney, Tim Clarke, Kevin Bowling, Tomáš Slavotínek, and many others.

Ardent Tool of Capitalism - MAD Edition! is maintained by Tomáš Slavotínek.
Last update: 09 Feb 2023 - Changelog | Legal Info & Contact